Solid Gold vs Gold-Filled vs Gold-Plated vs Vermeil: How to Tell the Difference

You've found two gold necklaces that look the same. One is $40, the other is $400. Is the expensive one worth it? Will the cheap one turn green? And what do "gold-filled" and "vermeil" actually mean?

The difference comes down to how much real gold is in the piece, and whether that gold goes all the way through or is only a thin layer on the surface. That decides whether your necklace lasts for decades or starts to fade within a year. Here's the quick answer, how to check a piece yourself, and how to choose.

What Is the Difference Between Solid Gold, Gold-Filled, Vermeil and Gold-Plated?

Solid gold is gold alloy all the way through. Gold-filled, vermeil and gold-plated jewelry all have a layer of gold over another metal; the difference between them is how thick that layer is and what's underneath.

How Can I Tell if My Jewelry Is Real Gold?

You can usually tell whether jewelry is solid gold by checking its stamp, its price, the spots where it rubs, and your skin.

1. Look for the stamp. Solid gold is stamped with its karat (10K, 14K) or its purity in thousandths (417 means 10K, 585 means 14K). The stamp is usually on or near the clasp. Letters like GF, GP, GEP or HGE after the number mean the gold is only a layer.

2. Check the price against the weight. Solid gold is priced by its gold content. A heavy-looking chain at a very low price is almost never solid gold.

3. Look where it rubs. On plated jewelry, the clasp and the inside of the links wear first. A silver, copper or gray color showing through there means the gold is only on the surface.

4. Watch your skin. Green or dark marks on the skin come from the base metal under worn plating. Solid 10K and 14K gold won't turn your skin green.

5. Don't rely on a magnet alone. Gold isn't magnetic, so a piece that sticks to a magnet isn't solid gold. A piece that doesn't stick isn't proven real, because many base metals aren't magnetic either.

When in doubt, a local jeweler can test the metal in a few minutes.

What Should I Check Before Buying Gold Jewelry Online?

Before you buy gold jewelry online, read the product description for these five things:

• The karat. Look for "10K" or "14K" stated clearly. A listing that only says "gold" or "gold color" usually isn't solid gold.

• The words around "gold." "Gold tone" means no real gold at all. "Gold-plated," "gold-filled" and "vermeil" mean a layer of gold over another metal.

• The stamp. Ask the seller where the karat stamp is if the photos don't show it.

• Whether you can shower in it. A seller of solid gold will say yes. A seller of plated jewelry will usually say to keep it dry.

• The return policy. A seller confident in the metal will let you return it.

What Does Each Type Mean?

What is solid gold jewelry?

Solid gold jewelry is made of gold alloy all the way through, with no other metal hidden underneath. 14K gold is 58.3% pure gold and 10K gold is 41.7% pure gold, mixed with other metals for strength. Because there's no surface layer to wear off, solid gold keeps its color for life and can be polished back to new.

Choose solid gold if: you'll wear the piece every day, want it to last for years, or it's a gift meant to be kept.

What is gold-filled jewelry?

Gold-filled jewelry has a thick layer of karat gold bonded to a brass or copper core. Under US Federal Trade Commission rules, the gold layer must be at least 1/20 of the piece's total weight, which is why gold-filled jewelry is stamped "1/20 14K GF." Gold-filled is far more durable than plating, but it isn't solid gold, and the layer can wear through over time.

Choose gold-filled if: you want a gold look on a tighter budget and will keep it away from water and chemicals.

What is gold vermeil?

Gold vermeil (pronounced "ver-may") is sterling silver plated with gold. Under US Federal Trade Commission rules, the gold must be at least 10K and at least 2.5 microns thick. Vermeil is a step up from basic plating, but it's still a coating over silver, so the gold can wear off and the silver underneath can tarnish.

Choose vermeil if: you want an affordable gold-colored piece for occasional wear.

What is gold-plated jewelry?

Gold-plated jewelry has a very thin layer of gold applied over a base metal such as brass, copper or nickel. US rules allow gold plating as thin as 0.175 microns, about 400 times thinner than a human hair. Gold-plated jewelry is the cheapest way to get a gold color, and the first to fade, chip or turn skin green.

Choose gold-plated if: it's fashion jewelry for one outfit or one season.

Which One Should I Buy?

For jewelry you'll wear every day or keep for years, solid gold is the best choice. The layered types suit budget or occasional wear.

Is solid gold worth the higher price? Often, yes. A plated chain that fades in a year has to be replaced. A solid gold chain is worn for decades, can be repaired and polished, and keeps the value of its gold.

Frequently Asked Questions

1. Is gold-filled jewelry real gold?
Gold-filled jewelry has a layer of real gold, at least 5% of its weight, over a brass or copper core. It contains real gold but isn't solid gold.

2. Is gold vermeil real gold?
Gold vermeil has a layer of real gold, at least 10K and 2.5 microns thick, over sterling silver. The gold is real, but it's a coating, not solid gold.

3. Can I shower in gold-filled or gold-plated jewelry?
It's best not to. Water, soap and chemicals wear down the gold layer faster. Solid 10K and 14K gold can be worn in the shower.

4. Does solid gold tarnish?
Solid 10K and 14K gold don't tarnish or flake. They can lose some shine from everyday wear, and a gentle clean with mild soap and water brings it back.

5. What does 585 or 417 mean on jewelry?
585 and 417 are gold purity marks in parts per thousand. 585 means 58.5% gold, which is 14K. 417 means 41.7% gold, which is 10K.

6. Will solid gold turn my skin green?
No. Green marks come from copper or other base metals touching the skin, which happens when plating wears off. Solid 10K and 14K gold won't turn skin green.

7. What does "gold tone" mean?
"Gold tone" means the jewelry is gold-colored but contains no real gold. It's usually a base metal with a colored finish.

Why JewelHeart California?

Every JewelHeart piece is genuine 10K or 14K gold, stamped for authenticity. None are gold-plated, gold-filled or vermeil. We're a women-owned company with three generations of fine jewelry experience, and every order ships free within the US in a JewelHeart gift box, with a 30-day return policy. Learn more about the stamps in our guide to gold jewelry hallmarks.

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Source: US Federal Trade Commission, Guides for the Jewelry, Precious Metals, and Pewter Industries (16 CFR Part 23).